* Wound Care
  * Surgical Incisions
  * Hot Packing
  * Foot Soaks
* Pre- and Post-Surgery
* Vaccine Reactions
* Ear Cleaning
* Toenail Trims
* Training
  * Basis of Behavior
  * Who's in Charge?
  * Appropriate Punishment
  * Crate Training
  * Other Tips
* Shampooing

Articles:

Wound Care:(back to top)
Disclaimer: Deciding how a wound should be treated is a complex matter. The following instructions should only be used to augment the advice of a veterinarian based on a physical exam of your pet, and should not substitute for proper veterinary care.

Seek medical attention for any of the following wounds:
o Wounds that continue to bleed after applying direct pressure for five full minutes.
o A puncture wound occurring from a nail, oyster shell, wood or plant material, fish hooks or other sharp objects.
o A gaping wound or any wound you think might need stitches.
o A wound that has a fatty layer, white or yellowish tissue or muscle that is exposed.
o A wound that has visible foreign material such as gravel, dirt, glass or metal.
o Any type of burn.
o Any type of bite.
o Any wound causing severe pain.
o Any wound which causes lameness or loss of movement below the wound.
o Any new wound if your pet has a chronic medical condition such as diabetes, autoimmune disease, immune deficiency, bleeding disorder, or is on prednisone, cortico-steroids, or chemotherapy.

Surgical Incisions:(back to top)
Surgical incisions should be monitored for signs of swelling, hemorrhage, drainage or discharge, redness, excessive pain or dehiscence (the incision is beginning to open). If the pet is licking the wound excessively, it may indicate an early problem with the incision.
Incisions should also be protected from water or moisture, excessive movement or activity, or other inquisitive and rambunctious pets.
Do not apply hydrogen peroxide, ointments, witch hazel or other astringents without the advice of a veterinarian. Do not bathe the pet or allow it to go swimming until the sutures are removed.
Do not administer any kind of pain relief without first consulting with your veterinarian. Certain types of over the counter pain relief may be dangerously incompatible with drugs already administered to your pet at the time of surgery.
Most sutures should be removed in 7-10 days by the veterinarian that placed them.

Hot Packing:(back to top)
Some types of wounds will need to be treated by "hot packing". These are wounds that may be contaminated and need to be encouraged to drain.

Start with a clean face cloth or small towel. Immerse the towel in extremely warm tap water in a large bowl. You may want to add just a little betadine to the water as a disinfectant, but it is not necessary. Allow the towel to thoroughly warm up in the water and then remove and wring out all the excess water. Apply the cloth to the wound and gently compress it. Keep your hand on the towel as you apply gentle pressure, that way you can determine if the cloth is too warm. If it is uncomfortably warm to you then it is too warm for the animal. You may need to periodically re-submerge the cloth in the warm water to reheat the compress. Continue this for 15 minutes, gently removing crusts, debris, discharge, ect. When done the wound should appear pink and clean. This procedure should be repeated three times a day.

Foot Soaks:(back to top)
Some types of wounds of the feet of pets may be treated by foot soaks. Again, a veterinarian should initially make this determination. A good technique is to fill a plastic cup 3/4 full with very warm water, several teaspoons of Epsom salts, and a small amount of gentle disinfectant such as betadine, povidine or chlorhexadine. Do not add too much disinfectant as it may stain the pet's fur or any furniture onto which it might spill. In a comfortable position for both you and your pet, immerse the foot into the cup for 10-15 minutes. During this time, you might need to discard and replace the solution in the cup to improve the quality of the soak. Do this two to three times daily, as directed by your veterinarian.

Pre- and Post-Surgery:(back to top)
Surgery can be a scary thought to even the bravest person, so its no wonder that when its time for your pet to go through it you are a little nervous for them. But following the appropriate pre- and post- surgery protocol can ease your mind and help your pet sail through surgery with as little discomfort as possible.

Pre-Surgery: If your dog needs a bath, give it a day or two before they will be going into surgery - you won’t be able to bath them for seven to ten days afterwards if they have stitches or any sort of open wound. The night before the surgery take away all food and water from your pet when you go to bed; just like humans, many animals feel queasy from anesthesia, and if they have full stomachs they may begin to vomit once anesthetized, which can cause choking if the dog is already asleep and not able to pick up its head. If you are not able to drop off your dog between the specified times on the day of the surgery (usually between 8:05 and 8:30 am), the Folly Road Animal Hospital will board them the night before for free and take care of all pre-surgery procedures for you.

Post-Surgery: When you pick up your pet they will probably still have traces of anesthesia in their system, so don’t give them food and water immediately (especially not after that bumpy care ride!). Wait until they are home and comfortable and try giving them just a small amount of water; if they are unable to keep it down just take it away until morning when you can try another small amount of water. If they hold down the water without getting sick you can give food. If vomiting continues for more than 6-12 hours you should call the vet. You will also want to wait until the next morning to give them any pain medication. All animals are given a shot of pain medication before the surgery that will last for 24 hours, so giving them any further pain medication before the next morning will overdose the animal and cause possible problems. Most dogs will go home with a pack of Rimadyl for post-surgical pain, while cats and very small dogs will receive Buprenex; if you are unsure whether your pet will be receiving this pain management you are welcome to request it at the time of check-out after the surgery.

Most animals will come out of surgery with stitches that will need to be kept clean and dry for 7-10 days afterwards. If your pet has stitches, keep them out of water and mud until the stitches come out, and also keep your pet from licking, biting or scratching the affected area. Constant licking can cause a secondary bacterial infection at the site of the stitches, and biting or scratching can cause the stitches to be ripped out. If your dog won’t stop harassing the stitches you can put bitter orange cream around the wound, or get an e-collar (lampshade collar) to put around their neck to keep them from being able to bite or lick the area. If your pet continues harassing the affected area and you notice that it looks red or swollen, call your vet for an appointment as you will most likely need veterinary attention. Also look for bumps under the stitches area which might indicate a fluid pocket or hernia which will need immediate veterinary attention. After 7-10 days if the stitches look ok call ahead and bring your pet into the office to have them checked and removed.

For more information on post-surgical wound care, please see the Surgical Incisions section of this page.

Vaccine Reactions:(back to top)
Although Vaccination helps your pet stay healthy, some pets may experience side effects after they have been vaccinated. Common side effects include: injection site tenderness, lethargy, fever, and a small lump or bump at injection site. These side effects are actually good. This means that your pets’ immune system has recognized the vaccination as a foreign virus and in return mounted an immune response to that virus. If your pet comes in contact with this virus in the future the immune system is “wise” to it and your pet does not get sick. Generally these common side effects last only 1-2 days post vaccination; if your pet is experiencing them longer they should be seen by a veterinarian. Emergency side effects that rarely occur are vomiting, seizure, passing out, and facial swelling all due to allergic reaction. Emergency side effects generally occur within the first five minutes after vaccination; therefore the veterinarian can react immediately. If your pet experiences an emergency side effect the veterinarian will give them an injection of Benadryl (antihistamine) and an injection of Dexamethasone (anti-inflammatory) to halt the reaction. Based on the severity of the reaction combined with the consideration of your pet’s lifestyle, the veterinarian together with you can decide whether your pet should be vaccinated again. If you have any questions after your pet has been vaccinated do not hesitate to call your veterinarian.

Ear Cleaning:(back to top)
Regular ear cleaning is a must for any pet, just as it is for a human. Waxy deposits and dirt can build up in the ear, causing a perfect breeding ground for infections that can be difficult to manage. Check your pet’s ears regularly between visits to the veterinarian and clean them out if you find any dirt or wax inside, or if they smell foul. A home-made solution of 50/50 rubbing alcohol and white vinegar can be used as a general ear cleaner; the vinegar will kill bacteria and yeast in the ears while the rubbing alcohol will dry up any excess moisture. Use cotton balls (NOT Q-tips!) to clean out the ears, putting the cotton ball in as far as your finger will go. If you need a deeper cleaning, take your animal to the veterinarian - trying to clean an ear you’re not familiar with can result in a ruptured ear drum.
The following videos provide tips for administering ear drops or ointments: For Dogs or For Cats

Toenail Trims:(back to top)
Dogs: Trimming a dog’s nails can be quick and easy as long as you trim the nail to the appropriate length. When trimming the nails, you should try to stay 2mm in front of the quick, which contains the nerve endings and blood vessels inside the nail. It’s easy to locate the quick on a dog with white nails; it will have a pinkish color in the nail. When trimming a dog with dark nails, you should cut several small sections starting from the tip of the nail back. Another way to do a proper nail trim is to place the nail trimmers where you want to cut, and apply a small amount of pressure; if the dog reacts you should trim closer to the tip, if the dog does not react it should be safe to trim the nail.

Cats: The first step in trimming a cat's nails is to push on the pad of the foot so the nails will extend out. Once the nails are extended, place the trimmers 2mm in front of the quick. It’s very easy to recognize the cat’s quick because of the pinkish color similar to the dog’s quick.

Quicks: If the quick is cut and bleeding occurs, you can use home remedies like flour or corn starch to stop the bleeding. The best product, however, to stop a nail from bleeding is Quick Stop, which you can find at your local pet supply store. Dab your finger into the Quick Stop (it is a yellow powder) and press it onto the bleeding nail; hold for 10 seconds or until the nail stops bleeding.

Training:(back to top)
Basis of Dog Behavior:(back to top)
The most important thing to keep in mind when attempting to train, or mold your dog's behavior, is that he or she is basically a wolf! Because wolves are highly social animals, with a clear sense of hierarchy, they are easily adaptable to life with man. Early man probably found benefits to keeping abandoned wolf pups, much as we find benefits of keeping domesticated dogs. No doubt adopted wolves provided protection, security, help with pursuing game, companionship and physical warmth, just like domestic dogs provide these same things to modern man today! Through hundreds of years of selective breeding, wolves not only slowly became German Shepherds and Huskies (clearly wolf-like) but also Chihuahuas, Shar-peis and delicate Yorkies. Despite their superficial differences, our canine friends are basically wolves, both genetically and behaviorally. In fact, many genetic experts are hard pressed to consider them as separate species, because wolves and dogs can inter-breed and still produce fertile young.
In the wild, dog packs are controlled by a leader, referred to as the 'alpha dog'. The alpha dog establishes rules (guided by instinct) and ensures that all of his subordinates do not break these rules in his presence. With subtle exceptions, domesticated dogs also establish a linear system of dominance in which no dog is exactly equal to another dog. That is, the alpha dog is always dominant to every other dog, the second dog in command is dominant to all others except the alpha, and so on. Punishment is the means by which superior dogs exert their dominance over the lower ranked dogs within the pack, while submission is the means by which lower ranked dogs communicate to their superiors that they understand the hierarchy and the rules and signal them to stop the punishment.

Who's in Charge:(back to top)
Dogs like to know where they are in the hierarchy of the pack and are very satisfied not to be the alpha dog. Often, if a dog perceives that an alpha dog is not keeping up his responsibilities in making decisions and keeping order in the pack, the dog will become emotionally stressed and may try to take on the role of ‘alpha’ dog himself. So don’t feel bad for making your dog take the submissive role; you are actually doing him a favor by remaining the strong, ‘alpha’ leader.
An analogy that makes sense to most people is that of an ocean cruise vacation gone terribly wrong. Imagine the stress you would feel if you were on a large ocean liner and you found out that no one is in control of the boat because the captain and the crew have all been incapacitated due to some illness or tragedy. Fear and stress would ensue as the passengers attempted to determine who is most qualified to take control of the boat. Let's imagine that among the passengers present is an airline captain that understands basic navigation and operation of large engines, radios, etc... The passengers all agree that this person is most capable of handling the drifting vessel and elect him to the position of boat captain. Though he may not be as skilled as the original captain, he is certainly better than no captain! These are the same emotions a dog goes through when the owner does not take the role of 'captain'. Instinctively, the dog depends on an alpha leader to ensure a steady supply of food, water, shelter, and safety; if a leader does not become apparent then the dog will initially go through a period of stress. A way to resolve this stress is to replace the failing alpha dog with a more capable one, and an owner might be supplanted as leader by his pet if he/she does not maintain his/her alpha status. This can happen if the owner is away often, is inconsistent with rules and administering appropriate punishment or if the owner administers inappropriate punishment, such as hitting.

Appropriate Punishment:(back to top)
Alpha dogs and wolves, as previously stated, enforce the rules of the pack by delivering punishment. Punishment should be as mild as possible; enough to “deliver the message” but not so much to hurt the pup. The subordinate dog will signal that the message is understood by exhibiting submissive gestures that might include: lowering the head and averting the eyes (a ‘sheepish’ expression), tucking the tail, rolling over, urinating a little bit, or holding still and trying to figure out what just happened. When these “Roger, that!” messages are given by the submissive dog, the dominant dog should immediately stop the punishment. When considering the wolf, not having to deliver more severe physical punishment helps the pack stay physically fit, so that all dogs can participate in pack protection or hunting. If the dominant wolf persisted in injuring his subordinates, the pack fitness would be jeopardized and the survivability of even the alpha wolf would be in question. So it makes sense not to injure your subordinates- you might have to depend on them.
When delivering punishment to a puppy, sometimes all that is necessary is a firm, verbal, “No!” Corporal (or physical) punishment is too severe and may cause fear or lack of trust in the pup. Look for the body language that demonstrates that the puppy understands and then cease all punishment.
Once you have established that the behavior that elicited the punishment was negative, immediately re-direct the puppy to some acceptable, but similar, behavior. For example, if the puppy was chewing on your favorite shoes, and the behavior was successfully stopped by a strong, verbal “No!” followed by the puppy demonstrating the appropriate submissive gestures, now is the time to redirect the chewing behavior to a soft chew toy. Once the puppy has switched his attention to the appropriate chew toy, praise him lavishly. In this way, you are allowing an outlet for instinctive behavior (chewing your shoe) that both you and the puppy find acceptable (chewing the toy). Remember that we won’t be able to stop instinctive behavior, but we might be able to mold it into something different, that both the dog and the owner can accept.
Be consistent with the training. Any and every time you find him chewing on the shoe, he must be punished and re-directed. If you let him do it every now and then, the message will be muddled. Punishment should not vary in intensity: if the shoe was a very expensive one, the punishment should be no worse than if it was an old sneaker. Dogs also have trouble with ‘qualifiers’. For example, if it is OK to chew on your “old” shoe, but not your “new” shoe, the dog will be confused. If it is OK to chew on the shoes you give to him, but not those a friend gives to him, he will be confused again.
Dogs have trouble with temporal associations. In other words, if too much time has elapsed between the negative behavior and the punishment, the dog will not understand what he is being punished for. In our example, if the dog was chewing on the shoe two hours ago (or even two minutes ago) it is too late to punish him. If you try to establish the relationship by rubbing his face on the shoe, the message he might learn is “letting my owner rub my face on the shoe is bad” instead of the lesson “shoe chewing is bad.” The second lesson will only be gleaned if the punishment occurs during the unacceptable behavior. You have to catch and punish the dog “in the act” of bad behavior.
Dogs will consistently test the boundaries of acceptable and unacceptable behavior. The old adage of “give someone an inch and they will take a mile” is very applicable to most dogs. If you fail to deliver punishment for an established bad behavior, the dog will be tempted to try it more often, or the behavior may slowly worsen in small increments. Eventually, the dog might re-shape your behavior!

Crate Training:(back to top)
In the wild, wolves will generally raise a litter of pups in a den. The den might be as large as a cave, or as small as a shallow hollow under the roots of a fallen tree. Here, the growing pup feels secure from weather and other predators as it grows into a neonate. Initially, the mother wolf will lick the perineal area of the pups to stimulate urination and defecation, swallowing these excretions. The next time she goes hunting, the mother wolf urinates or defecates far away from the den, so that no odors will attract predators to her puppies. As the puppies grow larger, they begin to develop bladder and bowel control, so that they also will not soil the den area. With the help of a crate, you can house train your pup, harnessing these natural instincts.

Crate training will help you:
1) avoid expensive damage to your house from a pup,
2) provide safety to your pup when you are away from the home,
3) make your pup feel secure when you are away,
4) speed the house training process,
5) make it easier for your dog to travel,
6) improve the relationship with your dog by avoiding situations requiring punishment,
7) improve relationships with friends and relatives you might want to visit with your dog,
8) improve relationships with your house mates.

The best crate will be one that mimics a “natural” den. The pup will feel more secure in a covered, quiet, darkened, and comfortable environment. A bad example is a wire crate typically used at dog shows or pet shops; the ‘open’ feeling the wire crate provides instead makes the pup feel trapped and vulnerable. A good example is a plastic crate typically used to transport animals on a plane. Make sure there is enough room in the crate for your pup to stand up and turn around and for you to provide a water bowl. Too much room, however, and the pup will urinate or defecate in one corner and sleep in another. If the crate is too large to accommodate a growing puppy, you can ‘tighten it up’ by temporarily placing smaller cardboard boxes within it, or purchasing a crate with a removable wall.
Desensitize the puppy to the crate by placing the crate in the vicinity of the puppy and letting it inspect it on its own. Feed the dog in the crate without closing the door; play games around the crate and encourage the dog to go into the crate during these play sessions. NEVER use the crate to confine the dog after punishment and NEVER crate the dog as punishment. The dog will learn to resent the crate and any sense of security the crate could have provided the puppy will be lost.
Limit the crate times to short sessions at first, gradually increasing them to a maximum of six hours as the dog matures. Remember that the pup’s ability to hold its urine depends on its ability to develop a larger bladder, and this may take several weeks or months. If you are unable to get home at lunch, you might need to enlist the help of a friend or neighbor to let the dog out of the crate during this adjustment time. When you arrive home to walk the dog, open the door of the crate, pick the pup up and carry it outdoors to the area you want it to relieve itself. You must pick the dog up so it does not simply run out of the crate and soil the carpet in the house. If you carry the dog to a desired spot, you might achieve association with an area you would prefer the dog to use. Consistently, use a phrase or command that you would like the dog to associate with the act of elimination, such as “Hurry up!” or “Do your thing!” Repeat the phrase gently and often, until the dog has performed. Once the dog has eliminated in the desired area, reward it with lavish praise. The more you are able to reward the dog for the eliminating in the appropriate area, the sooner the association will be made.
If a ‘mistake’ occurs in the house (as they will), never punish the dog unless you are able to catch the dog in the act. Remember that dogs do not understand temporal relationships well. So, you should not punish the dog after the act; only during the act (refer back to the earlier discussion on appropriate punishment). The popular advice of ‘rubbing the puppy’s nose in it’ is also useless; the puppy will be confused as to why you are exhibiting this ‘bizarre’ behavior and might begin to distrust you. Remember to use the advice discussed previously and simply deliver a firm, surprising, verbal reprimand. Sometimes, if the “No!” is loud and surprising enough, the act of elimination might also be interrupted. Then the puppy can be moved outside and encouraged to perform in the appropriate area.

Other Crate Training Tips:(back to top)
· Water should be provided at all times. If the pup frequently knocks over the water bowl, or drinks the water too quickly, you can put ice cubes in the bowl instead. Or you can freeze several tupperware containers full of water; the pup can drink the water as it melts, and it is not likely to make the crate uncomfortable if he knocks it over.
· You can move the crate around the house, as needed. Keep it in the kitchen while cooking or eating dinner, or move it into the bedroom at night.
· Use the crate often and for variable lengths of time. For example, if you need to talk for a while on the phone, use the restroom or take a short nap, the puppy should be crated.
· Place a clock radio (tuned between stations for a hissing sound) in the vicinity of the crate to provide ‘white’ noise, which is effective in masking other noises that might rouse the pup. A fan also provides some ‘white’ noise.
· After any rough play, puppies will feel the urge to urinate; take them outside after play bouts to improve the chances of successful, appropriate, elimination.
· Play with the puppy before crating it. Usually, after a short play time, puppies are more likely to fall asleep.
· Spend some time petting the pup and talking quietly to it after placing it in the cage so as to encourage sleep. As the puppy becomes drowsy, close the door gently and attempt to move away quietly. If the pup wakes as you move away, remain still until he falls asleep again.

While dogs of any age can be trained using the methods above, older dogs may take more time to train. You may want to remove the top of the crate until the dog becomes comfortable eating and lying in the bottom portion. Remember: the process is the same no matter what age the dog is, but you may need to go slower and be more patient with an older dog.

Shampooing:(back to top)
1. The air temperature in the bathing area should be warm and the water should be cool to lukewarm. Wet the coat thoroughly.
2. Pay particular attention to the affected areas of your pet's skin. Apply sufficient shampoo to these areas and rub in well. Then lather the rest of the hair-coat.
3. Allow the shampoo to remain on the coat for 15 minutes. Contact time with the shampoo is very important. For best results use a timer.
4. *Rinsing is as important as shampooing. Un-rinsed shampoo may cause irritation to the skin.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 as recommended by your veterinarian or the directions on the shampoo bottle.
6. Towel-dry your pet. You may use a blow dryer, but be sure the temperature is on warm and not hot.
7. Repeat the shampoo therapy as directed by your veterinarian or the directions on the bottle.

*Note: some treatments call for “dipping” the dog. In this case the dip should not be rinsed off; let it sit on the dog to air dry instead.