Birdcare FAQ



Signs of Illness



Even though your bird is domesticated, it still has instincts and exhibits the behavior of a wild bird. If a bird showed signs of illness in its native environment, another animal would take the opportunity for an easy meal! Or, birds lower in the social hierarchy would 'make their move' in the flock, dominating the vulnerable sick-acting bird. With this in mind, you can understand why, even as a pet, your bird will continue to try to hide the signs of illness. Sometimes a bird has been sick for days before the earliest sign is evident to you. You should seek veterinary assistance immediately at the earliest, following signs of disease:

  • Fluffed feathers
  • Tucked head
  • Resting on the cage bottom
  • Loss of appetite
  • Weight loss
  • Depression (inactivity or droopy wings)
  • Weakness
  • Regurgitation
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Open mouth breathing
  • Coughing, Sneezing, or Wheezing Changes in vocalization or voice
  • Abdominal Swelling
  • Prolapsed Cloaca
  • Bleeding (always an emergency situation)
  • Loss of balance
  • Seizures or Tremors
  • Discharge from eyes or nose
  • Swelling around eyes
  • Unusual droppings(color,quality,or consistency)


Malnutrition and Good Nutrition

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Probably the most common disease of caged exotic birds is malnutrition. You have heard that these birds can live 50-70 years, but surprisingly they often don't last much longer than 25-30 years in captivity. This is mainly due to the poor quality, mostly seed, diets that are too readily available at most pet stores. Unbalanced diets lead to obesity, hypocalcemia, egg binding, thyroid dysfunction, respiratory disease, heart disease and more. The most important thing that a bird owner can do for their bird is to provide a well balanced and varied diet.
Many commercially available foods claim to be "complete" but aren't. Your best bet is a combination of several types of foods. A pelleted diet should be used as the staple. Pelleted diets can be convenient as they do not spoil quickly, can be stored easily, and are ready for use. Supplement pelleted diets with lots of fresh vegetables. The best vegetables are the dark greens, yellows, and reds. The more colorful the vegetables, the more vitamins and minerals are present. Examples of these are collard greens, mustard greens, beet greens, dandelion greens, endive, zucchini, broccoli (in small amounts), alfalfa sprouts, carrots, squash, sweet potatoes, and raw beets. You should also supplement this diet with lean proteins. Examples of lean proteins are cooked chicken breast, canned chicken, tofu, eggs (scrambled or boiled), corn, pasta, grains, a limited amount of cooked red meat, and fish. And finally, add a small amount of fruits (oranges, bananas with the skin, pineapple, mango, cored apples and pears, plums, peaches), nuts and seeds. Do not buy a diet mostly made of seeds and nuts. Seed and nuts should constitute only about 15% of your bird's diet. Most seed mixes are high in protein, but also, unfortunately, very high in fat and salt, and devoid of most vitamins and minerals. Also, avoid lettuce, cabbage, spinach (may deplete calcium), peanuts (high in moldy toxins) and tomatoes.

So, you say you have a "seed junkie"?

Some birds, unfortunately, are "seed junkies" and refuse to eat anything other than seeds. One of the best ways to switch your bird off of seeds is to hide the seed in bread mixes. Here is a recipe that may help...

Ingredients:
2 cups of cornmeal
1/4 cup ground pelleted diet
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
6 eggs, with shells
1/2 cup of the birds regular seed diet
A small amount of pureed vegetables (increase the amount gradually with each week)


Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Blend eggs (with shells) until the shell pieces are small. Pour rest of the ingredients and blend for about 20 seconds. Pour ingredients into greased 8 by 8 by 2-inch baking pan. Bake until golden brown. Cool completely and cut into squares. Freeze the rest. As the bird removes the seeds from the bread, it will develop a taste for the vegetables and pelleted diet used in the mixture. As the weeks go by, carefully increase the amount and the particle sizes of the chosen vegetables until larger pieces are actually consumed by the bird. Also, increase the amount of pelleted diet as you decrease the amount of cornmeal used in the recipe. If at any time the bird refuses the bread, go back to the prior recipe that was working and proceed more slowly. You might add commercially available bird vitamin/mineral supplements to the bread after it has cooled. It is best to wait until the bread has cooled as some vitamins are destroyed by heat.

Management and Husbandry

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Other common diseases found in caged birds result from poor management. Boredom, cramped and dirty caging, improper ambient temperature, and inadequate perches can lead to a variety of problems such as feather picking, obesity, upper respiratory infections, infections of the feet (bumblefoot), etc.

You can prevent most of these diseases by paying attention to cage, perch and toy selection, providing environmental enrichment, practicing good hygiene and by providing heat and protection from drafts.

Cage Size

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  • For smaller birds (quakers, senegals, and conure size) the cage should be no smaller than 24"by 18" by 18" with at least 1/2 inch bar spacing.
  • For medium size birds (eclectus, africans and amazon size) the cage should be no smaller than 30" by 24" by 30" with at least 3/4 inch bar spacing.
  • For large birds (macaws and cockatoo size) the cage should be no smaller than 36" by 36" by 48"with at least 1 inch bar spacing. The size and bar spacing of your birds home is important when trying to maximize the happiness of your bird. Your bird should always be able to fully extend its wings and there should always be enough room for its tail.


Cage Placement

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Placement of the cage in your house is important to your bird's happiness and health. Their cage should be out of direct sunlight. Partial sunlight is okay, but be sure that your bird can get into a shaded area to prevent over heating. Try to not place your bird in drafty areas, such as in front of doors, windows in winter or air conditioner vents. Also, you should try to avoid placing your bird's cage in the kitchen. Too often we have seen burns from birds flying into pots on the stove. Then there is the issue of bacteria found naturally in bird feces in close association with your family's food. Outside cages are subject to attack by cats, raccoons, dogs, and hawks.

Perches and Toys

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Two or three perches of various sizes should be kept in your bird's cage. The variation in diameter of the perches helps to exercise your bird's feet and prevent arthritis. The highest perch should be the most comfortable one for your bird because that will be the perch that they will usually sleep on.
You should try to keep two or three "appropriate" toys in the cage to prevent boredom. In their natural environment, birds are constantly tearing leaves and bark off of branches in their constant hunt for nutrition and energy. Toys allow them to exercise their natural drive to destroy things. If they are not given an outlet for this kind of behavior, self mutilation (or feather picking) may result. Try to avoid toys that have small metal or plastic parts that can easily be broken and swallowed. Excellent choices for bird toys are:
  • fruits and veggies cut into different shapes
  • uncooked pasta to crush and destroy: elbows, wagon wheels, spaghetti, lasagna
  • hanging sprigs of 'bird safe' leafy twigs (see below)
  • cotton ropes
  • a few hard shelled, uncracked nuts (walnuts, pecans)
  • a Kong toy (special bird kongs are available)


Bird safe plants include:
Dogwood Rose Elm Fir
Marigold Peppermint Spearmint Parsley
Honeysuckle Willow Magnolia Chamomile
Petunia Camellia Gardenia


We recommend that you cover the cage at night. This provides your bird a quiet, dark place to rest. Covering the cage also provides protection from drafts and serves to capture heat. A heating pad under the cage at night will provide additional heat in the winter. Once you start covering your bird, you should continue this for the life of your bird. Just like us, they are creatures of habit and it will disrupt their sleeping cycle if you don't cover them.

Toxcities are also very common among caged exotic birds. Here's a list of some of the more common toxins found in almost every home.
  • Cigarette Smoke
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  • Avocado
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  • Chocolate
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  • Medicines
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  • Tobacco
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  • Poppy
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  • Alcohol
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  • Sage
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  • Tulip
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  • Sago cycas
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  • Delphinium
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  • Azalea
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  • Daffodil
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  • Wisteria
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  • Figs
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  • Hyacinth
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  • Narcissus
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  • Oak
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  • Iris
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  • Peony
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  • Periwinkle
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  • Ivy: Boston, English and some others
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  • Philodendron
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  • Poison Ivy, Oak and Sumac
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  • Juniper
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  • Poinsettia
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  • Rhododendron
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  • Mistletoe
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  • Rhubarb
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  • Morning Glory
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  • Liquid refrigerants found in AC units and refrigerator compressors
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  • Apple: seeds and leaves
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  • Daphne
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  • Laurel
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  • Insect repellents: Either from the bottle or when it is on the skin of the owner
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  • Fruit seeds and apricots: pits, leaves and bark
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  • Burning Teflon covered cookery
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  • Eggplant: unripe/over-ripe fruit and leaves of Elephant's ear
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  • Lead: fishing weights, lead wires or solder used to secure cage doors, batteries, foil from wine bottles, caulk and paint found in older homes
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    Other husbandry issues

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    One of the most commonly asked questions is whether or not to clip wings. Often we see broken wings, broken necks, burns and heart-broken owners that have lost their pets due to preventable accidents or escapes. The bird in captivity is at high risk for injuries from ceiling fans, colliding into windows, landing in boiling pots of water, crashing into walls, etc. So, we encourage clients to have their birds wings clipped. Although clipping a bird's wings is not a very hard thing to do, serious mistakes can be made by an inexperienced person. Also, birds will resent the person who trims their wings.

    Nail clipping is desirable. It prevents nails getting caught in clothing or on toys. It prevents the handler's skin from getting scratched. In smaller birds, nails may be filed with an emery board or clipped with nail trimmers. If you attempt this yourself, be sure that you have something on hand to stop the bleeding if you accidentally cut the quick. If bleeding does occur, you can use styptic powder (Kwik Stop), flour, or corn starch to stop the bleeding. For larger birds, we recommend that you bring your bird to someone who is experienced in handling and clipping bird nails. Concrete perches and sand paper covers for perches may keep your bird's nails shorter, but they can cause irritation and excessive wear to the soles of the feet and may be a cause of bumblefoot. Beak trimming may be necessary if your bird doesn't wear it down chewing on toys, nuts or cuttle bones. DO NOT attempt to do this yourself. You should seek the expertise of a veterinarian for this.

    Bathing

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    Wild birds generally take advantage of natural rainfall to shower. This helps keep their feathers clean, restoring a brilliant sheen to their plumage. Caged birds should also be allowed to bathe periodically. Once a week is usually sufficient, although some bird owners prefer to make it part of their daily routine.

    Some birds prefer a bath in a container that has a small amount of water in it; others will tolerate mist from a spray bottle You can also bathe your bird by taking them in the shower with you. There are shower perches available at specialty stores that cater to pet birds. Or he could perch on the shower rod and enjoy the steamy humidity. After your bird finishes its bath, hairdryers can be used to dry it. Use a low temperature setting and a safe distance (more than 10 inches) from your bird to prevent burns. If you chose to let your bird "drip dry", make sure that they are kept in a warm area away from drafts.

    Band Removal

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    Most pet birds have an identification band on their leg when they are purchased. These bands are helpful in identifying your bird if they fly away, determining the aviary or birthplace, as well as the year that they were born. Usually, an open band indicates that the bird was born outside the country and a closed band indicates a bird born in the country. There are disadvantages though. If the band doesn't fit properly, it could cause injuries (broken or sprained legs). Bands should NEVER be removed by the owner! Only a trained veterinarian should remove the band.

    Other illnesses

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    • Polyoma: Polyomavirus is a potentially fatal disease that is difficult to treat. It is carried by 95% of all parakeets (budgies). This virus can cause hemorrhaging in the heart, liver and other organs. It also causes enlargement of the spleen and liver. This virus resides in your bird's feces and feather dust. It can also be found on the bird's toys as well as on the owner's skin, hair, and clothing. There are virtually no signs that your bird is infected with the exception of sudden death. Fortunately, there is an annual vaccine that can prevent this disease. The Biomune Avian Polyomavirus Vaccine has been found to be 96% effective in preventing this disease.
    • Pachecko's: Pachecko's Disease is highly fatal. This "hepatitis-like" disease causes liver and kidney failure. It is the second most common infectious disease in birds. Imported conures have been thought to be possible carriers of this disease. Your bird can be infected with this disease for several years before any symptoms show up. Some of the symptoms of Pachecko's disease are depression, anorexia, diarrhea, regurgitation, sinusitis and conjunctivitis. This disease is spread through an infected bird's feces. Most commonly, it is fatal to love birds, parakeets, pionus, amazons, and cockatoos. There is also a vaccine for Pachecko's. We recommend that you get your bird vaccinated annually to prevent the onset of this fatal disease.
    • Psittacosis: Psittacosis, also known as "parrot fever" or chlamydiosis, is a common, but treatable disease that can be found naturally in most parrots and parakeets. This is one of the few bird diseases that is transmittable to humans. Fortunately, healthy people are fairly resistant to the disease. It is spread mainly by dried bird droppings that become air-born, but can also be spread by feather dust and nasal discharge. Many birds show no signs of having this disease. The signs of disease in sick birds include respiratory and sinus diseases, weight loss, poor feathering, pale green watery droppings and even sudden death. Beak and Feather disease is another virus-caused illness that results in a bird having a malformed beak and feathers. It will progress so that the entire bird becomes bald, is unable to eat well and has severe respiratory problems. It is a chronic, debilitating disease that is heart breaking to watch a bird go through. Currently there are no vaccines or treatments available, however, tests for early detection do exist.
    • Macaw Wasting Syndrome or Proventricular Dilatative Disease (PDD): This is another debilitating disease that eventually results in the death of a bird. It starts as occasional regurgitation, but progresses to starvation, a flaccid (instead of muscular) proventriculus, and regurgitation after any attempt to eat. Currently, no treatment, vaccines, or even a good diagnostic test exists. The presumptive diagnosis is achieved with a barium series (radiographs) demonstrating a distended proventriculus. A definitive diagnosis is achieved by a crop biopsy that includes a nerve with the characteristic microscopic lesions.

    Laboratory Tests

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      There are several routine screening tests for your bird.
    • Fecal: A fecal sample is taken and put under a microscope to check for any parasites, such as coccidia or giardia. The float concentrates certain parasites at the top of a test tube full of a heavy salt solution enhancing detection of worm eggs of various types and other organisms .
    • Gram Stain: A sample can be taken from the throat, crop, or from the feces. The sample is treated with several staining agents to reveal gram positive or gram negative bacteria. Depending on the type, number and characteristics of the results, potential diseases can be determined and treated.
    • Blood Profiles: A blood sample is taken and analyzed for such problems as anemia, blood parasites, and liver and kidney damage.
    • Bacterial Culture and Sensitivity: Based on the results of the gram stain, fecal droppings or other secretions are submitted to a laboratory. The lab attempts to grow and isolate any bacteria that are found. Samples of antibiotics are then tested to determine which will be most effective for treatment.
    • ECG: A handheld unit will be placed against your bird's chest for approximately one minute and a recording of the heart's electrical activity will be analyzed for cardiac abnormalities.

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